Lately I've felt a slight disconnect from the world of Rick. The past few women's collections, while filled with beautiful pieces, for me have been missing the raw dark energy I love so much in his earlier work. However, this collection to me brings a lot of it back. Undoubtedly you will always know when you're looking at a Rick Owens show, however I really like the callbacks to his past collections here. Many people reacted badly to the non-black colour palette, particularly the opening brown. The one thing Rick Owens always does so well is colour in the sense that he creates colours that don't offend by being obnoxiously loud. The callback to the icy grey colour from Crust (appeared more icy on NowFashion), apparently named Pearl this season, makes me smile because Rick makes such beautiful and unique greys. A new iteration of the Elephant boots with a laced or sneaker toe prop up jumpsuits in a myriad of delicious fabrics which just makes this even better. The scarves are beautiful. The only element I dislike would be the vertical stripes down the shorts which bring on unflattering images of people sitting around in adidas trackpants (I find myself unable to like any pants with stripes down the side).
If there were only one thing I could say to Rick after seeing this collection it would be for him to make a women's version of the thick leather jumpsuit. I would walk around in that everyday.
When the first images became available online I instantly fell in love. As I was scrolling I thought to myself how subdued the men's collection was in comparison to the women's. Clearly I thought too soon and my jaw nearly dropped off when the second half of the show began. The animal heads are simply divine and I would love to own one, simply to be appreciated on the wall or take obscure photos in. Being confronted by a male model in a comically inflated suit made my day. These pieces are genius, and oddly enough I even love the fabrics and patterns. It is always nice to see designers pushing forward with a different silhouette for men. I often feel as though women are given more freedom by designers in that department.
I'm reminded of those lovely children's books illustrated in watercolour with the raw hems and edges on the suits, so magical. I think this may possibly be my favourite men's collection this season. I highly recommend viewing the video for the full experience.