1. Maison Margiela
I love absolutely everything that's going on here. The colours, textures and shapes. My favourite would be this white dress with a mesh overlay. That being said, I don't understand the bags. They look like an odd combination between a Birkin and something else? Still, the bags tied around the models' waists as backpacks was a nice touch. I don't have a deep and ongoing connection with the DNA of Maison Martin Margiela, but I think Galliano has presented a fantastic collection which at the same time is very wearable. This collection feels like a refreshing change to my usual black fare, so I decided to put it at number one.
2. Noir Kei Ninomiya
Kei Nonomiya is another designer who is incredibly innovative in creating texture in his garments. Most people are aware he worked for Comme des Garçons before being given his own label in 2012, I believe. Apparently the piece that took the longest to construct was this dress with 7,000 beads hand applied by two people over 3 days. It's worth your while to view the collection zoomed in.
3. Rick Owens
After seasons of distance Rick finally made me feel something again, from both the clothes and the presentation. Normally I dislike the spectacle but here the expression felt genuine and organic by including non-traditional models for their strength and unity rather than simply for their appearance. Diversity should stem from the meaning of a collection, not annexed on like a gimmick. Good one, Rick. I'm hoping for a return to impressive outerwear this coming Winter.
4. Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji seems like he's been feeling vexed recently. Last Summer he sought to break his taboo of "sexiness". This season he seemed to be venting frustration through dilapidated corsets and crinolines. I really like that he's able to imbue so much emotion into his clothes. Not many designers are able to convey such strong feelings. The final look - blood red - was an appropriate ending to all of the draped and fluid blacks/blues preceding it.
5. A.F. Vandevorst
There were some absolutely beautiful looks worn by models who rode to the show on motorcycles. If you look closely the typical silver studs are decorated into patterns with more delicate embellishments. It looks very rich and elegant. However, I still can't get on board with the marching band jackets/vests.
I had trouble picking only three photos from this collection. Jun Takahashi has presented something very rich and interesting (unlike Gareth Pugh this season). To me this is a good example of how to take a motif and produce something new. The jackets with fronts replaced by backpack straps is very clever.
7. Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons
I decided to include Comme Comme on this list instead of Rei's mainline. Although that collection was itself amazing I really like the simplicity and wearability of Comme Comme. People always talk about the Rick Owens uniform and to me this feels the same for CdG.
Aganovich are somewhat new to me and I loved almost everything. The fabrics and tailoring are so beautiful. My only complaint would be the neckties- I find them distracting and believe that every look would have been a lot stronger without them. As a scrolled through the collection I began picturing each look without the tie. It made it that much more appealing.
9. Thom Browne
It's hard not to appreciate the beautiful textures and tailoring. Although I do like the presentation and the styling, if you could give any sort of criticism I think it would be that it's slightly messy. Maybe it was intentional to act in contrast to the impeccable tailoring. Otherwise I wish I could afford a Thom Browne suit/s/. I think it'd make going to work feel so much better.
10. Issey Miyake
Hypnotised. I could sit and stare at these fabrics all day.
photo credit vogue.com